Placing the eyepads and tape on the bottom lashes can be a bit scary at first because we don’t want to poke them or get too close to their eye! The most important part of this step is to keep the pads and tape not too close to their waterline, but not too far under to where their bottom lashes are still exposed. A good set of under eyepads should easily stick to the clients skin and never slide off. Eyepads should be placed on top of the bottom lashes to hold them down. Tape should be applied just under the waterline and should be used to cover the bottom lashes.
If not taped correctly, the bottom lashes will get glued to the top lashes. If the eyepads or tape is applied too close to their eye, their eyeball may get bruised and result in red eyes, which is not a good look! Make sure to adjust the inner and outer corner of their eyes with the eyepads to prevent this from happening. Ask your clients if everything feels okay before starting.Every set starts with good-quality lash pads and tape.
You’ll need to make sure your client’s lashes are squeaky clean before applying the lash extensions. Their natural lashes must be free of dirt, makeup, and oils. Failing to do so may result in bad retention. You should always start your service with a lash bath using a safe foaming lash shampoo and apply primer to ensure maximum retention.
Before your clients come into their appointment, remind them to come in with clean lashes so it’ll be an easy process for you and you’ll be able to make the most out of their time!
One of the most important steps is correctly isolating lashes. We will do it a million times throughout the service! It’ll be like second nature to us. You can isolate in multiple ways. You can isolate with both your tweezers, with your hands, with tape, or with gel pads!Isolation allows the natural lashes to follow the growth cycle and shed properly. If two lashes are stuck to each other, one can grow faster than the other, be pulled out, and damage the hair follicle. This will cause pain and discomfort for your client and can result in them never returning and a bad reputation upon you. Lash extensions should never cause any pain and should be a safe process!
Always check for stickies during and at the end of your appointment! Stickies are just another term for lashes that are stuck together. Check the root through the tip of each and every lash and for possible baby lashes stuck to another lash.
SHOP OUR ISOLATION TWEEZERS
Extensions should always be placed at least 0.5-1mm away from the lash line. Placing them too close to the skin or even on it will rub and irritate your client’s skin. Placing them too far on the lash can weigh it down, causing it to twist and turn. But remember! It’s better to place them further than too close when you’re just starting out.
The base of the extension should be fully attached and parallel to the lash no matter what. There should be a bonding point of atlest 2mm. Make sure it’s not sticking up. Even though it may look attached from the top, you can check from the side and see.
Don’t be afraid to attach the extension from different angles! You can place it from the top, side, or bottom depending on how their natural lash grows! Top placement is best for lashes that grow downwards, side placement is best for lashes that grow straight, and bottom placement is best for curly lashes.
Not changing your glue every 15-20 minutes
Replacing your glue dot every 15-20 minutes is a must for good retention! This is because glue cures as it’s exposed to air and humidity in the air. You’ll know it’s time to change it once it starts looking stringy and goopy.
Remember to always shake your glue before dispensing a new drop to mix all the ingredients together. If the glue looks a bit transparent, you didn’t shake it well enough. Using a glue shaker will save you so much more time than just shaking it with your hand. Replace your glue every 4-6 weeks.
Not using the correct drying time for your adhesive
Choosing a drying time that fits within your range is one of the things to look for when choosing an adhesive! You want to make sure you have enough time to isolate and place down the fan once you’ve dipped the lash in glue.
Using glue that’s too fast for you can result in the glue curing before you can even place it. Glue cures faster in high humidity so that’s something else to consider. Using a glue that’s too slow will result in stickies. You’ll want a drying time that’s just right!
Using the wrong diameter and length for their natural lashes
Eyelash extensions come in many different diameters and lengths. You’ll come across diameters such as .15, .07, .05, .03 and lengths as long as 25mm! The bigger the number, the thicker the lash is. The thinner it is, the more lashes you can put in your fan. However, too much weight can cause damage to the natural lashes.
.03 is typically used for mega-volume sets that are more dense and dramatic. You can use up to 16 lashes per fan.
.05 is a popular diameter used for volume sets. You can use up to 8 lashes per fan.
.07 is also used for volume sets. You can use up to 5 lashes per fan.
.15 is used for classic sets. Since it is on the thicker side, you’ll only want to apply 1 lash to the natural lash.
The rule of thumb is to never use lengths that are more 3 mm longer than their natural lashes to maintain their health. You can use our helpful lash measuring ruler to choose the appropriate lengths for your clients!
Choosing the wrong mapping for their eye shape
One of the biggest mistake you can make is using the same mapping on every single one of your clients! It’s our jobs as lash techs to master knowing which sets will suit our client’s eyeshapes. You’ll come across all sorts of eye shapes. There’s almond, round, hooded, monolid, upturned, downturned, wide set, close set, and protruding eyes.
Choosing the wrong mapping for their eyeshape can break the set and it won’t look as appealing Knowing which curls and styles that suits their eye shape is crucial. We want to enhance their features! It’s also important to consider the way their natural lashes grow.
The most popular styles are open eye doll eye, cat eye, and natural.Tip: Use lash map stickers to achieve symmetry on both eyes
Not emphasizing the importance of aftercare
Lastly, we cannot stress enough how important it is to inform your clients about aftercare. Without the proper care, your beautiful work won’t last as long! Retention is both on you and your client - you work as a team! Remind them to wash their lashes 2 times a day with a gentle lash shampoo, especially if they wear make up as the dirt and oils can build up on their lash line and cause their lashes to fall off.
Aftercare cards are perfect to give to your client and include in your aftercare kits. It includes all the maintenance needed to keep their lashes looking pretty and intact.
We understand that mistakes can happen, but it's always better to avoid them when possible. As a lash artist, it's important to stay informed and educated to prevent them from happening. We're here to help you achieve that success! It takes practice so don’t let these mistakes ever discourage you from becoming an amazing lash expert!